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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Thursday, September 5, 2013

Achor clipping from Will Gadd..


 
 


Most of this stuff is the same ice or rock.  Will is known for ice but it is worth a few minutes to read his recent thoughts and the resulting discussion if you haven't already.   Loved the reality check and the common sense approach.

http://willgadd.com/anchor-clipping/

http://willgadd.com/anchor-clipping-2/

"Most of the people proposing various strategies have simply not gone out and tested their strategies. I have. Bluntly, until someone experiences the violent forces and speed of high fall-factor falls I just don't think he or she really has an informed opinion on this topic"

My general thought is this:

"There are very few “absolutes” in climbing systems..."

Understanding the dynamics and the systems we are using is what I think is important and more than a penny of simple common sense added to the  problem each time.  I can count the number of times I have clipped straight into the anchor.  It aint many.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

This is what common sense tells, and I tend to speak up when I see those ex-USSR "certified" instructors teaching dangerous BS about "thou shall always clip the runner thru topmost anchor piece". Will just summarized that, and deepened the research.